From ancient artefacts to modern art, Qurans to carpets, Tehran is home to the best of Iran's museums and galleries. And though it doesn't have the long, illustrious history of Isfahan or Shiraz, Tehran is where to discover more about Iran's 20th century upheavals, from the tarnished grandeur of the Pahlavi palaces to the countless fading murals in praise of Khomeini and the Iraq War martyrs.
But history also demands that life goes on. As Tehran's wealthy increasingly look west for cultural leads, ever-widening cultural divisions make walking the city streets a study in social distinctions.
Western brands stamp their mark on the wealthy north of the city with increasing swagger, while, in the south, the impressive, labyrinthine Bazar-e Bozorg (Big Bazaar) continues to heave in and dish out vast quantities of gold, silver, spices, carpets, textiles and Chinese-made consumer goods of dubious quality. Uptown girls let their headscarves drift back over boutique hairdos - a petty but pertinent sign that Islamic restrictions are not to everyone's taste. At the same time chador-wearing women make their own unmistakable statement.
Be sure though to take a Friday walk in Tehran's northern suburbs, where paths leading into the mountains are trod by one and all. In Darakeh, the sense of relief is tangible as Tehranis kick off their shoes to cool hiked-out feet in the cold mountain stream. At Tochal the cable car takes skiers to pistes no more than 30 minutes away from the centre of town.

Azadi Tower
This distinctively shaped arch is situated in the western part of Tehran near Mehrabat International Airport.
The word Azadi means national independence and it was completed in 1971 for the celebrations given by Mohammad Reza Shah to commemorate 2,500 years of Iranian Kings.
The 3 floor, 45m high monument is constructed from large 25,000 granite blocks from Hamedan province. Almost 15,000 differently shaped blocks were used to create the unique shape of the Azadi Tower.
Though modern in style, the design incorporates both pre and post-Islamic architectural styles. The 21m high archway is representative of the pre-Islamic Sassanid period while it is also pointed to represent hands raised in prayer.
Four elevators and two staircases (286 stairs) take you to the top of the tower from where you can see extensive views of Tehran. In the basement is a museum divided into two rooms.
The first contains pottery and glassware from prehistoric through to Islamic Iran as well as bronze artefacts dating back to the 1st and 2nd centuries BC excavated from Lurestan. The second room contains photographs and models depicted traditional life from different parts of Iran.

National Jewels Museum
Located in the basement of the National Bank of Iran on Ferdosi Avenue, in front of the embassies of Germany and Turkey, this is one of the best known museums in Iran. On display is an impressive collection of some of the most famous and spectacular jewels in the world including many priceless pieces.
Many pieces have disappeared over the years but the remaining collection of gemstones, jewellery, royal emblems, ornamental guns and jewel-encrusted furniture is still impressive. The majority of the items on display were given to Safavid kings as gifts but many pieces taken by Nader Shah on his conquest of India are also exhibited. These include the Darya-e Nur diamond, The Peacock Throne and the Jeweled Globe. Other pieces include the crowns of the Qajar and Pahlavi Kings.

Statue, National Museum of Iran, Tehran
Opened in 1937, the National Museum was Iran's very first museum. To this day it houses Irans foremost collection of archaeological and cultural treasures. The main entrance is on Tir Street but it can also be entered from Shahid ra Jai Street.
The museum was designed (and until 1960, also curated) by the French archaeologist and architect Andre Godard. The two-floor building was built to resemble the palace of Ardeshir I in Firuzabad and the red brick entranceway and dome are reminiscent of the Sassanid and Arsakid styles.
The main building houses a collection of artefacts from prehistoric Iran to the end of the Sassanid period, including pottery dating from before 1000BC, Elamite artefacts discovered at Susa and Chogha Zambil and a wealth of Achaemenid period decorations from Persepolis. A copy of the stela carved with Hammurabi's Laws serves as a reminder that the original, now in the Louvre, was discovered in Iran.
An extension built in 1997 houses treasures from the early years of the Islamic era to the present. At the heart of the collection are handwritten copies of the Holy Quran displayed in an atmosphere of quiet reverence and spirituality along with other complementary elements of a mosque, such as an altar prayer chamber.
Other handwritten books include the poetic works of Ferdowsi, Nezami Sadi and Hafez. The uppers floors of the building chart the flourishing of Iranian art in fields such as pottery, glassware, miniature painting, carpets, metal engravings and calligraphy.

The Golestan Palace in Tehran
Located on Khordad Square, the Golestan Palace ("Palace of Flowers") is a collection of buildings set in a walled park veined with canals rushing down from the Tochal mountains. It stands on the site of the historic Arg (citadel) of Tehran which was originally built in the time of Shah Abbas (r. 1588-1629) of the Safavid dynasty.
The Arg became the official royal residence when Agha Mohammad Khan Qajar moved the capital of Iran to Tehran and further palace buildings were constructed during the reign of Karim Khan Zand (r. 1750-1779). Buildings commissioned by Naser Al-din Shah (r. 1848-1896), such as the Shams-ol-Emaneh ("Edifice of the Sun") and the Emarat-e Badgir ("Building of the Wind Towers") show traces of a European architectural style that the modernising king was influenced by on his travels.
The splendour of the interiors of many of the buildings evokes a time when foreign dignitaries were invited to the Qajar court and compared its artistry to the royal buildings of Europe. Both the Eyvan-e Takht-e Marmar ("Terrace of the Marble Throne") and the Talar-e Aineh ("Hall of Mirrors") are famous for the spectacular mirror work that covers their walls.
Elsewhere can be seen fine examples of Iranian stained glass, mosaic tiles and painting. Several buildings house collections of paintings and gifts given to Qajar kings by European dignitaries as well as paintings by Iranian masters.
Though not all of the buildings are open to the public, the park itself is an oasis of calm in the heart of the city.
Jomeh Bazaar (Friday Market)
Tehran's Jomeh Bazaar (Friday Market) has a huge variety of bric-a-brac on display. The Friday Market is held on three floors of a multi-storey car park in central Tehran, on the east side of Joumbouri Avenue. The flea market is open every Friday from around 9am to 4pm.

Tree of Life Motif Carpet, Carpet Museum, Tehran
Not far from the Museum of Contemporary Art and also adjacent to Laleh Park, the Carpet Museum of Iran is one of the most rewarding to visit of Tehran's many museums. Most of the more than 100 carpets on display are from the 19th or 20th centuries but there are a handful of older specimens from as far back as the 16th century.
Photography is permitted though use of flash is not. Hunting and wildlife scenes show off the carpet makers art to the greatest extent.
Corner of Fatemi Street and Kargar Avenue; Admission fee
Tehran Museum of Contemporary Art - Laleh Park
On the west side the very lovely Laleh Park is a low-lying dun-brick building functioning as Tehran's most important museum of contemporary art.

Exhibit at the Tehran Museum of Contemporary Art
In the construction itself you see something of the struggle in all Iranian art to reconcile the traditional with the modern. First notice the skylights raised from the roof. Reminiscent of the "badgirs" of Yazd or Kashan, these allow the harsh sun to softly light the central sunken well of inner space itself a modern interpretation of the cool underground havens of desert city residences.
Labyrinthine corridors spin off the central hall and guide you through the history of modern Iranian art. There are many fine pieces and some deep, absurdly comfortable armchairs from which to view them from.
Kargar Avenue; Admission fee
Reza Abbasi Museum - Shariati street
Saad Abad Palace Complex
Niavaran Palace Museum

Accommodation in Tehran
Tehran, as befits the capital of Iran is well served with accommodation options to suit all budgets from five star luxury properties to more budget small hotels.
Top of the range four and five hotels in Tehran include the Espinas Hotel, the Tehran Grand Hotel, with spa, sauna and in-house restaurant, the Ferdowsi International Grand Hotel offering flat-screen TV in all rooms and a restaurant, the Asareh Hotel with fitness center, sauna and free Wifi throughout and the Melal Apartment Hotel. The Tajmahal Hotel Tehran is another five star option with a fitness center, sauna, satellite TV and restaurant.
More budget hotels include the Iran Motel (breakfast included), the Sepand Hotel with airport shuttle, and the three star Karoon Hotel. The Hally Hotel is a 3 star business hotel with continental or buffet breakfast.

Isfahan (or Es·fa·han (ĕs'fə-hän', Persian: اصفهان) is a city in central Iran, south of Tehran and is the capital of Esfahan Province. The Persians call it "Nesf-e-Jahan", meaning "Half The World". Due to its beautiful hand-painted tiling and magnificent public square, it is considered to be one of the most beautiful cities in the world. An ancient town and capital of Persia from 1598 to 1722, it was long noted for its fine carpets and silver filigree. Today, textile and steel mills take their place. Its architecture, tree-lined boulevards and relaxed pace make it one of the highlights of Iran. See :
Squares and streets : Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque, Meydan Kohne (Kohne Square), Shahshahan Square, Chaharbagh Boulevard,
Mosques : Imam Mosque (fka Shah Mosque before Iran's Revolution), In Naghsh-i Jahan Square. Built during the Safavid period, it is an excellent example of Islamic architecture of Iran, and regarded as one of the masterpieces of Persian Architecture. It is registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its splendor is mainly due to the beauty of its seven-colour mosaic tiles and calligraphic inscriptions, Sheikh Lotf Allah Mosque- one of the architectural masterpieces of Safavid Iranian architecture, this mosque is considered to be the most beautiful in Iran. Built-in 1602 by Shah Abbas I.= and designed by his chief architect, Sheikh Bahai. The mosque was designed to be a private mosque for the royal family and therefore it does not have any minarets. There is a tunnel from the mosque to the Royal Palace, across the square, Hakim Mosque - one of the oldest mosques in Isfahan. Built by Shah Abbas II between 1656 and 1662. Located on the site of a 10th-century mosque. The portal was covered in mud until it was discovered in 1956, Masjed-e Jāmé of Isfahan, Started in AD842, this is the first Islamic building to adapt the four-courtyard layout of Sassanid palaces
Palaces : Ālī Qāpū(The Royal Palace) - Early 17th Century. It is forty-eight meters high and there are seven floors, each accessible by a difficult spiral staircase. In the sixth-floor music room, deep circular niches are found in the walls, having not only aesthetic value but also acoustic. It is rich in naturalistic wall paintings by Reza Abbassi, the court painter of Shah Abbas I, and his pupils. There are floral, animal and bird motifs, Talar Ashraf (The Palace of Ashraf) - 1650, Hasht Behesht (The Palace of Eight Paradises) - 1669: Reportedly built for residence purposes of the King's harem, Chehel Sotoun (The Palace of forty columns) - 1647: It is called Palace of forty columns, as there are many columns, and in Iranian, 40 means many. Incidentally, there are twenty columns, and these are reflected in the pool in front, which might also account for its name. The function of this palace was for holding religious-national ceremonies and royal festivals and for receiving royal ambassadors and guests.
Schools : Madreseye Sadr, Madreseye Shah (Imam Jafar Sadegh after the revolution). The compound was built during Soltan Hossein, a Safavid king, to serve as a theological and clerical school to train those who were interested in such sciences. The dome and the greater part of the walls are covered in bright yellow bricks which give a feeling of lightness. The entrance gate decorated with gold facade and silver and the tile-works inside the building are masterpieces of fine art and industry. The central court, with its pool and garden, are surrounded by arcades on two levels, each giving access to a student's room, Madreseye Khajoo
Bridges : Pol-e Shahrestan (The Shahrestan Bridge) - 11th Century. It is one of the oldest surviving bridges in Iran, built in the 14th Century (C.E.), Pol-e Khaju (Khaju Bridge) - 1650. It is the finest bridge in the province of Esfahan. It was built by the Persian Safavid king, Shah Abbas II around 1650 C.E. This structure originally was ornated with artistic tile works and paintings serving as a teahouse, Si-o-Seh Pol (The Bridge of 33 Arches) - 1602. It is highly ranked as being one of the most famous examples of Safavid bridge design, Pol-e-Joui or Choobi(Joui bridge)It is one of Isfahan's oldest bridges and was built in 1665, during the Safavid era, Pol-e-Maarnaan (Maarnaan Bridge)
Churches and Cathedrals : Vank Cathedral (The Church of the Saintly Sisters) - 17th century. The interior is covered with fine paintings and gilded carvings and includes a wainscot of rich tile work. The delicately blue and gold painted central dome depicts the Biblical story of the creation of the world and man's expulsion from Eden. Right above the entrance, there is an interesting fresco of heaven and hell with black and brown devils slaughtering white naked people who obviously sinned. To heaven go well dressed pious people with candles. Entrance to the compound on which there is also a museum: IRR200,000. Good value compared to what you pay at other sites, Kelisaye maryam (maryam church)
Gardens : Flowers Garden Though, the best time for Flowers Garden is spring, in other seasons, you can find many beautiful small waterfalls, covered sub-garden of cactus, Birds Garden
Modern Isfahan : Isfahan City Center which is recently completed and now serving the visitors with its variety of products and services, such as a museum, a Food court with traditional and international meals, an Art Gallery, the largest shopping mall in Iran with local and international brands, The largest indoor amusement park in Iran. You can spend a whole week exploring its facilities, Modern Restaurants such as Shab Neshin, Kentucky House, Hermes, ..., Modern Amusement Parks such as Isfahan City Center amusement Park, Simorgh Amusement Park and Dreamland Amusement Park east of Isfahan, Kids Club Sofia Kids Club is the best kids club in Esfahan. They can keep and educate your children in the English language. The price is about 3 US Dollars per hour.it is consists of Coffee shop, rock climbing, children`s sand game etc. Tel +983132605725
Address: No.177, Ghorbanian Deadend, Bazarcheh st., Second Moshtagh (Near Shahrestan Bridge).
Other sights : Atashgah - a Zoroastrian fire temple. This small reconstructed temple and ruins are dramatically set atop a rock on the outskirts of Isfahan and provide a commanding view of the smog-covered city. You can take one of the blue buses there (ask the drivers). Alternatively, you can cycle the 15 km from the city along the river bank. Entry: IRR 150,000 for foreigners. Free for Iranians, Buqe'h-ye Ibn-Sina (Avicenna's Dome) - 12th Century, The Tombs of Nizam al-Mulk & Malek Shah - 12th & 18th Century, Jolfa - The Armenian Quarter, it includes one of the most beautiful churches in Iranm, Sheikh Bahai Bathhouse - falling apart due to neglect, Pigeon Towers - Built in the 17th century to attract pigeons, whose feces were then used as fertilizer, Hamam-e (Bathhouse) Ali Gholi Agha located in a pleasantly quiet neighborhood with many silver and bronze smiths.

Yazd is a city in central Iran and the capital of the Yazd province. It is an ancient city dating back to the Sassanian Period.
See : Masjid-e Jame (Friday Mosque), dating back to the fourteenth century, is well worth a visit. It is an example of finest Persian mosaics and excellent architecture. Its minarets are the highest in the country. Admire it at night when it is lit up, Atashkadeh is the Zoroastrian fire temple. The fire on the inside has supposedly been burning since 470 AD, Yazd Tower of silence (Zoroastrian's Dakhmeh) - the name tower is misleading as they consist of huge circular walls on top of two hills, within those the dead were left to be picked clean by the vultures. This is done in accordance with Zoroastrian belief. However, the towers are not in use anymore and open to the public. A quiet, serene place. The modern Zoroastrian cemetery is just there as well. Entrance for those who can't pass as Iranian: 150.000 rial [Sep 2017]. To get there using public transport, you can take the bus going south on Imam Khomeini from the bus stop across the street of Amir Chakhmaq Complex. Get down on the last stop, end of the line at an interchange terminal, and then from there ask people for another bus going to "Dakhme" (pronounced like German "Dach"), might need to wait a bit and be sure that the people will tell the bus driver to drop you on the correct bus stop, bus tickets should be 5.000 rial each [Sep 2017]. Once you are off the bus, it's a corner of a 4-way intersection and you go right, you will see the towers, its a 10-minute walk [Sep 2017]. One option is bus line 436 (Farsi numerals only); you should get off at the intersection just south of Yazd university, then walk west, towards the mountains, Yazd Water Museum lots of interesting information about the Canat water distribution system. Entrance fee 150.000 rial, Yazd Market Square's Clock , The cistern of Fatemeh-ye-Golshan, Amir Chakhmakh complex, a breathtaking construction and a must-see. Visitors can climb to the top. Not possible most of the time, Amir Chakmakh mosque, not to be confused with the complex of the same name, but nearby and easily visited when visiting the more famous complex, Hazireh mosque, water reservoir with its four badgirs (wind towers), Khan-e-Lari, a historical house, Alexanders prison, which was neither built by Alexander the Great nor a prison, but a 15th-century domed school which is quite an interesting sight with a cafe in the 'prison room'. Often guides tell you the deep well in the middle of its courtyard was built by Alexander the Great and was used as a dungeon, but this seems doubtful. Entrance fee 150.000 rials [Jan 2017]. Not worth the money - just a shopping center, Tomb of the 12 imams which dates back to the early 11th century, has inscriptions inside bear the names of the twelve Shiite Imams, though none are actually buried here. It is now badly deteriorated, Madrasse-e-Kamalieh, Bogeh-ye Seyed Rokamdin mosque, Dowlat Abad Gardens with a building with a beautiful large wind catcher (badgir), built in the 1960s. There is a fruit tree garden best visited in early summer. Has oranges, grapes, pomegranates and wheat. According to some, the wind catcher is the tallest in the world (33m). Entrance fee [as of Jan. 2016]: Iranians: 30,000 rial, foreigners (Kharejis): 150,000 rial, Markar square. This square is geographically located at the center of Iran, you can see it on the way, Rafieian's Old House (250 years Old), Walking way from Jame mosque to alexander Prison, 8.30 AM. to 8 PM.. Rafieian's old house is one of the most beautiful examples of Iranian Traditional Architecture. It has best roof view in Yazd. some thing that make the roof Unique between others, is expert guides that explain you every thing. 4000 T, Tourist library, Shah abolghasem Park, on the way from Jame mosque to alexander prison (Fahadan,Shah abolghasem park).

Shiraz which is known as a city of lovers is a land full of worth seeing things. It is believed that Shiraz is the most beautiful tourist city of Iran. Shiraz is also one of the biggest cities of Iran. It is the provincial center of Fars province and located in Zagros mountainous region with mild climate. Geographically, from the west, the city is surrounded by Derak mountain and from the north,it is limited by Bamu, Sabzpushan, Chehelmagham and Baba Koohi mountains.
It should be said that Shiraz is one of the most beautiful cities of Iran that many titles are assigned to it, for example "city of lovers" and it is due to the matter that Shiraz is the hometown of great poets like Hafez and Saadi. The city also has many historical and natural attractions that you will become interested in them. People of Shiraz are really warmhearted. Traveling to Shiraz can be one of your most memorable trips.

Since people of Shiraz are so kind and warmhearted,there is no place better than people's houses for staying in Shiraz. But if such situation is not provided for you,you can stay at hotel. Shiraz has many nice hotels. For example, Chamran hotel is the highest hotel in Shiraz that you can see the whole view of the city from its cafe, Homa hotel is one of the most luxurious and expensive hotels of Shiraz, Persepolis hotel is a seven-floor hotel with complete facilities, from Shiraz Grant hotel you can easily access to the historical parts of the city, Pars hotel is also one of the most luxurious hotel in Shiraz with special architecture and two towers facing each other. If you prefer to spend less money and stay in a medium quality hotel we recommend you hotels like Jahangardi, Jam-e Jam, Eram, Arg, Shayan and Rudaki hotels. Niyayesh traditional hotel can be the best choice for those who interested in staying at a traditional place.

Kalam polo is the most popular local food of Shiraz and you can eat the best kind of it in Soofi restaurant. In addition to Kalam polo, other local food are cooked in Shiraz such as Shekar polo, Dopiyazeh Alu, Lari Kebab, Ash Sabzi and Ash Kardeh. Don't forget to try them. Ash Sabzi is a kind of vegetable soup that in cooked in Shiraz and served as breakfast. If you want to try this kind of soup and other local soup of Shiraz, you just need to go to Shams restaurant early in the morning.

If you are interested in eating Kebab, you can go Sharze traditional restaurant. Great kinds of Kebabs are served there, the restaurant also has a great environment. Haft khan restaurant is another great restaurant of Shiraz that has seven floors and you can eat different kinds of food there. Haft khan restaurant is also famous because of serving delicious Shirazi Halva. Shater Abbas, Shandiz, Berentin, Bagh-e Raz and Lotus restaurants are among the best restaurants of Shiraz.

Shirazi salad, also referred to as salad Shirazi, is a popular traditional Iranian salad that originated from and is named after Shiraz in Southern Iran.

Faloodeh or Paloodeh is an Iranian cold dessert consisting of thin vermicelli-sized noodles mixed in a semi-frozen syrup made from sugar and rose water that is similar to a sorbet.

Faloodeh or Paloodeh is an Iranian cold dessert consisting of thin vermicelli-sized noodles mixed in a semi-frozen syrup made from sugar and rose water that is similar to a sorbet.

Haft Khan Restaurant in Shiraz - Wildly popular with fashionable Shirazis, this enormous restaurant complex near Quran Gateway offers four types of dining experience: there's a generous buffet

If you prefer to eat fast food we recommend you to go Namak, Zaver and Ayot restaurants. Namak restaurant has a special decoration look like Halite. Restaurant of Shapoori house and Kateh Mas restaurant can be good choices for those who interested in eating food in traditional environment.

Faloodeh is the most popular food of Shiraz that you can eat the best kind of it in Jamshidian ice cream shop. You can eat the best ice cream of Shiraz in Baba Bastani shop that has two branches, one of them is located in Eram st., and the other one is located in West Ghodoosi Blvd. There are also many great cafes in Shiraz such as Cheshmandaz cafe in 23rd floor of Chamran hotel, Baran, Memar, Bahman 57, Street Lounge and Yoga cafes. They are the best cafes in Shiraz that you can go and enjoy your time.

If you want to buy special souvenir of Shiraz, you should go to Vakil Bazaar where you can find different kinds of famous handicrafts of Shiraz like Khatam, Carved wood, Silver, Kilim and Gabbeh. The famous beverages of Shiraz are different kinds of traditional Sharbat, Lemon juice and Verjuice that you can buy them from the stores located in front of Arg of Karim Khan. Masghati and Kaak ( Yukhe bread) are other famous souvenirs of Shiraz that you can buy them from Kamran confectionery cafe and Keshavarz confectionery respectively. Shiraz also has many modern shopping malls such as Persian Gulf complex, Aftab Fars shopping mall, Zeytoon,Hamoon and Soltaniye shopping centers.

Unexpected events and diseases are inevitable during a journey, so you need to have information about the health services of the city that you want to go. Shiraz is one of the biggest cities of Iran and has a lot of equipped hospitals sucha as Shahid Beheshti, Shiraz Pars, Dena, Dr Khodadoost, Namazi, Ghadir, Mother and Child hospitals. These hospitals provide patients with different therapeutic services. Shiraz also has equipped health clinics like Mohamad Rasoala, Motahari and Vali-e Asr clinics that have general, dentistry, radiology, physical therapy and laboratory parts and give services to patients. Dr. Shabab, Amir, Eghbal and Dr. Abedi pharmacies give 24-hour services to patients,too.

Shiraz has a lot of attractive places that you can go and enjoy. Here we introduce some of these places to you: Nasir ol Molk mosque which is a 1000-colour mosque of Iran, Arg of Karim Khan which is one of the most beautiful and unique monuments of Shiraz, Eram garden that has a lot of tall Cypress trees and it is one of the most beautiful gardens in Iran, Maharloo lake that has different colours in different seasons of a year, Shah Cheragh which is the most important religious attraction of Shiraz. The other attractions of the city are Vakil Bazaar, Zinat Al-Moluk house, Jahan Nama garden, Tomb of Hafez, Tomb of Saadi, Afif Abad garden, Saraye Moshir, Quran Gate, Shapoori and Qavam houses. We recommend you to go and visit a beautiful village near Shiraz which name is Qalat and an old church is there.

From ancient artefacts to modern art, Qurans to carpets, Tehran is home to the best of Iran's museums and galleries. And though it doesn't have the long, illustrious history of Isfahan or Shiraz, Tehran is where to discover more about Iran's 20th century upheavals, from the tarnished grandeur of the Pahlavi palaces to the countless fading murals in praise of Khomeini and the Iraq War martyrs.
But history also demands that life goes on. As Tehran's wealthy increasingly look west for cultural leads, ever-widening cultural divisions make walking the city streets a study in social distinctions.
Western brands stamp their mark on the wealthy north of the city with increasing swagger, while, in the south, the impressive, labyrinthine Bazar-e Bozorg (Big Bazaar) continues to heave in and dish out vast quantities of gold, silver, spices, carpets, textiles and Chinese-made consumer goods of dubious quality. Uptown girls let their headscarves drift back over boutique hairdos - a petty but pertinent sign that Islamic restrictions are not to everyone's taste. At the same time chador-wearing women make their own unmistakable statement.
Be sure though to take a Friday walk in Tehran's northern suburbs, where paths leading into the mountains are trod by one and all. In Darakeh, the sense of relief is tangible as Tehranis kick off their shoes to cool hiked-out feet in the cold mountain stream. At Tochal the cable car takes skiers to pistes no more than 30 minutes away from the centre of town.

Azadi Tower
This distinctively shaped arch is situated in the western part of Tehran near Mehrabat International Airport.
The word Azadi means national independence and it was completed in 1971 for the celebrations given by Mohammad Reza Shah to commemorate 2,500 years of Iranian Kings.
The 3 floor, 45m high monument is constructed from large 25,000 granite blocks from Hamedan province. Almost 15,000 differently shaped blocks were used to create the unique shape of the Azadi Tower.
Though modern in style, the design incorporates both pre and post-Islamic architectural styles. The 21m high archway is representative of the pre-Islamic Sassanid period while it is also pointed to represent hands raised in prayer.
Four elevators and two staircases (286 stairs) take you to the top of the tower from where you can see extensive views of Tehran. In the basement is a museum divided into two rooms.
The first contains pottery and glassware from prehistoric through to Islamic Iran as well as bronze artefacts dating back to the 1st and 2nd centuries BC excavated from Lurestan. The second room contains photographs and models depicted traditional life from different parts of Iran.

National Jewels Museum
Located in the basement of the National Bank of Iran on Ferdosi Avenue, in front of the embassies of Germany and Turkey, this is one of the best known museums in Iran. On display is an impressive collection of some of the most famous and spectacular jewels in the world including many priceless pieces.
Many pieces have disappeared over the years but the remaining collection of gemstones, jewellery, royal emblems, ornamental guns and jewel-encrusted furniture is still impressive. The majority of the items on display were given to Safavid kings as gifts but many pieces taken by Nader Shah on his conquest of India are also exhibited. These include the Darya-e Nur diamond, The Peacock Throne and the Jeweled Globe. Other pieces include the crowns of the Qajar and Pahlavi Kings.

Statue, National Museum of Iran, Tehran
Opened in 1937, the National Museum was Iran's very first museum. To this day it houses Irans foremost collection of archaeological and cultural treasures. The main entrance is on Tir Street but it can also be entered from Shahid ra Jai Street.
The museum was designed (and until 1960, also curated) by the French archaeologist and architect Andre Godard. The two-floor building was built to resemble the palace of Ardeshir I in Firuzabad and the red brick entranceway and dome are reminiscent of the Sassanid and Arsakid styles.
The main building houses a collection of artefacts from prehistoric Iran to the end of the Sassanid period, including pottery dating from before 1000BC, Elamite artefacts discovered at Susa and Chogha Zambil and a wealth of Achaemenid period decorations from Persepolis. A copy of the stela carved with Hammurabi's Laws serves as a reminder that the original, now in the Louvre, was discovered in Iran.
An extension built in 1997 houses treasures from the early years of the Islamic era to the present. At the heart of the collection are handwritten copies of the Holy Quran displayed in an atmosphere of quiet reverence and spirituality along with other complementary elements of a mosque, such as an altar prayer chamber.
Other handwritten books include the poetic works of Ferdowsi, Nezami Sadi and Hafez. The uppers floors of the building chart the flourishing of Iranian art in fields such as pottery, glassware, miniature painting, carpets, metal engravings and calligraphy.

The Golestan Palace in Tehran
Located on Khordad Square, the Golestan Palace ("Palace of Flowers") is a collection of buildings set in a walled park veined with canals rushing down from the Tochal mountains. It stands on the site of the historic Arg (citadel) of Tehran which was originally built in the time of Shah Abbas (r. 1588-1629) of the Safavid dynasty.
The Arg became the official royal residence when Agha Mohammad Khan Qajar moved the capital of Iran to Tehran and further palace buildings were constructed during the reign of Karim Khan Zand (r. 1750-1779). Buildings commissioned by Naser Al-din Shah (r. 1848-1896), such as the Shams-ol-Emaneh ("Edifice of the Sun") and the Emarat-e Badgir ("Building of the Wind Towers") show traces of a European architectural style that the modernising king was influenced by on his travels.
The splendour of the interiors of many of the buildings evokes a time when foreign dignitaries were invited to the Qajar court and compared its artistry to the royal buildings of Europe. Both the Eyvan-e Takht-e Marmar ("Terrace of the Marble Throne") and the Talar-e Aineh ("Hall of Mirrors") are famous for the spectacular mirror work that covers their walls.
Elsewhere can be seen fine examples of Iranian stained glass, mosaic tiles and painting. Several buildings house collections of paintings and gifts given to Qajar kings by European dignitaries as well as paintings by Iranian masters.
Though not all of the buildings are open to the public, the park itself is an oasis of calm in the heart of the city.
Jomeh Bazaar (Friday Market)
Tehran's Jomeh Bazaar (Friday Market) has a huge variety of bric-a-brac on display. The Friday Market is held on three floors of a multi-storey car park in central Tehran, on the east side of Joumbouri Avenue. The flea market is open every Friday from around 9am to 4pm.

Tree of Life Motif Carpet, Carpet Museum, Tehran
Not far from the Museum of Contemporary Art and also adjacent to Laleh Park, the Carpet Museum of Iran is one of the most rewarding to visit of Tehran's many museums. Most of the more than 100 carpets on display are from the 19th or 20th centuries but there are a handful of older specimens from as far back as the 16th century.
Photography is permitted though use of flash is not. Hunting and wildlife scenes show off the carpet makers art to the greatest extent.
Corner of Fatemi Street and Kargar Avenue; Admission fee
Tehran Museum of Contemporary Art - Laleh Park
On the west side the very lovely Laleh Park is a low-lying dun-brick building functioning as Tehran's most important museum of contemporary art.

Exhibit at the Tehran Museum of Contemporary Art
In the construction itself you see something of the struggle in all Iranian art to reconcile the traditional with the modern. First notice the skylights raised from the roof. Reminiscent of the "badgirs" of Yazd or Kashan, these allow the harsh sun to softly light the central sunken well of inner space itself a modern interpretation of the cool underground havens of desert city residences.
Labyrinthine corridors spin off the central hall and guide you through the history of modern Iranian art. There are many fine pieces and some deep, absurdly comfortable armchairs from which to view them from.
Kargar Avenue; Admission fee
Reza Abbasi Museum - Shariati street
Saad Abad Palace Complex
Niavaran Palace Museum

Accommodation in Tehran
Tehran, as befits the capital of Iran is well served with accommodation options to suit all budgets from five star luxury properties to more budget small hotels.
Top of the range four and five hotels in Tehran include the Espinas Hotel, the Tehran Grand Hotel, with spa, sauna and in-house restaurant, the Ferdowsi International Grand Hotel offering flat-screen TV in all rooms and a restaurant, the Asareh Hotel with fitness center, sauna and free Wifi throughout and the Melal Apartment Hotel. The Tajmahal Hotel Tehran is another five star option with a fitness center, sauna, satellite TV and restaurant.
More budget hotels include the Iran Motel (breakfast included), the Sepand Hotel with airport shuttle, and the three star Karoon Hotel. The Hally Hotel is a 3 star business hotel with continental or buffet breakfast.